Loire Valley Itinerary : 2-3 Day Loire Road Trip

Many people concentrate their Loire Valley itinerary around Tours, Amboise and Blois; and the grand castles in the area such as the Château de Chenonceau and Château de Chambord. But the centre-west section of the Loire Valley, between Angers and Chinon, is a delightful area for a 2-3 day visit. This Loire Valley itinerary takes in Angers, Saumur, Montsoreau, the Parc naturel régional Loire-Anjou-Touraine, Fontevraud l’Abbaye and Chinon over a 2-3 day road trip.

2-3 day Loire Valley itinerary ideas

In a 2-3 day time period, you can see a lot of this part of the Loire River valley. You can choose to stay in two different places to minimise drive-time each day – such as one night in Angers, and one or two nights in Saumur or Chinon. Or pick one central place, such as the Château de Briançon to base yourself for the full visit.

Angers

Angers is an interesting mix of old town and new. It has a rich history as the heart of the Medieval Plantagenet dynasty, an imposing riverside castle, and impressive hilltop cathedral. But there is also a modern centre with shopping and the occasional ugly 60s concrete mall. Although I have no doubt that regeneration will swallow these eyesores soon enough.

What Angers offers though are some glorious views across the Maine River, grandeur befitting the Courts of Anjou, and some damn good wines. The views from the Cathédrale Saint-Maurice d’Angers, down the steps to the river is captivating. The old town between the cathedral and the 13th century fortress is a medieval half-timber delight.

We enjoyed dinner at Le Grandgousier when we visited Angers.

Savennières + GUINGETTE BY THE RIVER

Don’t miss the opportunity to taste some AOC Savennières – a speciality white wine made from the Chenin Blanc grape. With only 176 hectares of vineyards, across 300 hectares of land just south of Angers, it is a very mineral-forward white. A visit to the Coulée de Serrant winery is a real treat. We found the wines to be unlike any others we have tried.

After a morning of wine tasting, head to one of the many Guingettes along the Loire. These seasonal bars offer a convivial setting, great casual dining and Loire Valley wines of course. We visited Guingette Thibault, and the views of the river were so peaceful.

I would recommend 1 full day to visit a winery near Angers, take in lunch at a Guingette along the Loire River, and explore the centre of Angers in the afternoon and evening.

SAUMUR

Saumur had us so enamoured on our first visit, we have revisited several times since. The main town sits on the south bank of the Loire River, with a central island (ìle Millocheau) and the more modern part of the city sitting to the north of the river. Much like the layout of Paris, albeit on a much smaller scale.

The Château de Saumur sits proudly overlooking the river, and the old town has hundreds of little winding streets opening onto convivial squares. There are restaurants, cafés and seating spilling out onto Place Saint Pierre. The church is an interesting mix of 12th-century and later additions. In the rabbit warren of streets, there are lots of little craft, clothing and jewellery shops.

You can walk up to the castle grounds and get fantastic views out of the city and river. The castle now houses the city museum, showcasing decorative art and antiquities from the area.

THE TROGLODYTE CAVES OF TURQUANT & MONTSOREAU

Cave dwellers were once prevalent here in France, but as houses became more convenient and affordable, the Troglodyte caves were abandoned. That is until people realised they were rather useful. Not only do they stay a consistent temperature all year round, the caves are also the ideal growing environment for growing mushrooms; and a good store for wine too!

In the caves along the Loire, in Turquant and Monsoreau, you can visit various businesses which use the caves to their advantage.

Montsoreau

The cute and tiny riverside town of Montsoreau is home to Château de Montsoreau, a late Gothic / Renaissance castle, which now runs as a modern art museum. Other great stops in Montsoreau include the Street Art Parc – an outdoor park of street art and objects. And a rather lovely riverside campsite, where kayaking and river views would make for a great vacation.

Montsoreau is the centre of the Parc naturel régional Loire-Anjou-Touraine, a regional park which takes in the very best the Loire River Valley has to offer. From flood plains to forests, rivers and hiking trails – this area has an intoxicatingly tranquil demeanour.

FONTEVRAUD L’ABBAYE

Up the road a few short kilometres from Montsoreau, is Fontevraud l’Abbaye. A town which sprang up around the abbey and orders which inhabited it. Famous on a number of accounts, the Royal Abbey was where Eleanor of Aquitaine spent the end of her life. The complex was used as a prison after the French Revolution, and it’s now a modern art museum – so it truly has seen the full gamut of uses in its time.

After a few hours exploring the abbey and museum, stop by the hotel and try some of the local absinthe, wine or a cocktail. In the summer it gets heaving busy, but there are satellite parking areas and a shuttle in high season.

Chinon

Your long weekend in the Loire ends in Chinon. Sitting on a premonitory about the Vienne River, Chinon has all the advantages of a fortified town. A long history of kings, dukes and power struggles has left Chinon with an eclectic old town. It used to be the favoured summer vacation spot for noblemen during the Renaissance, and there is still an air of grandeur about the place.

Don’t forget to try some of the local wine. Raffault is one of our Chinon favourites – their rosé is delightfully quaffable.

Loire Valley Itinerary Ideas

While I absolutely think you should visit the eastern end of the Loire Valley and indulge in the dripping grandeur of the big châteaux… a visit to the mid-west areas around Angers, Saumur and Chinon is by far my preference. Older, more fortress-like castles and hodge-podge architectural styles come together to weave an intriguing history. From cave dwellings to hilltop castles, wineries and river history – this part of the Loire Valley has it all.

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