You’d be forgiven for not knowing much about the small city of ‘s-Hertogenbosch in the Netherlands. But it is a city with spirit and a great artistic flair (both historic and current). Colloquially known as ‘Den Bosch’, it is a perfect weekend destination. Recently, we took a train up from south-west France to see the marvellous Bosch Parade, which takes places in ‘s-Hertogenbosch every two years. A nod to Den Bosch’s favourite son, Hieronymus Bosch, this weird and wonderful parade of artistic floats passes through the city on the Dommel River in a blaze of colour and fun.
Introduction to s-Hertogenbosch / Den Bosch
s-Hertogenbosch (pronounced seertohanboss) has a rich history dating back to the 12th-century. Along the trading routes of the Dommel and Aa rivers, it became one of the four major cities of the Duchy of Brabant, alongside Leuven, Brussels, and Antwerp.
Den Bosch (pronounced den boss) has become a vibrant cultural hub, famous for its well-preserved medieval architecture and the stunning St. John’s Cathedral.
Foodies flock here for the iconic Bossche Bol, This chocolate-covered pastry is practically a city mascot (no, seriously, you can buy Bossche Bol earrings and socks).
Renowned painter Hieronymus Bosch (c.1450-1516), whose fantastical works you can explore at various art institutions here. You can also visit his house on the market square to learn more.
With its picturesque canals, lively market squares, and a mix of traditional and contemporary vibes, Den Bosch offers visitors a quintessential Dutch experience without the tourist crowds of larger cities.
The Bosch Parade in Den Bosch
The fantastical ideas of Bosch are brought to life with floats in this quirky festival. Viewing spaces are set up along the river, and a programme of floats of varying sizes, shapes, concepts, and realisations float by you each evening. This 4-day festival takes place in June (every 2 years).
Artists from around the world work towards floating designs that reflect the theme for festival. In 2024, the theme was ‘Contemporary Demons’, a modern take on the demons often featured in Bosch artworks.
You can watch the parade from any number of free vantage points along the canal, or get prime positions in the stands at Brasserie Restaurant Bolwerk. We chose to get tickets for these stands for the comfort and guaranteed views. And the fact there were lovely waiters bringing us food and wine while we watched – it was fantastic!
At the end of the parade, near the Citadel (a star-shaped military fortification from the Bonaparte era), you’ll find The Garden of Earthly Delights. A beer garden and event space where you can grab a bite and celebrate the buzz of the the Bosch Parade (and see the floats up close).
Things to do in s-Hertogenbosch
Learn about Hieronymus Bosch
Den Bosch’s most famous resident, Hieronymus Bosch produced amazing works of such detail and oddity that they have become somewhat legendary. The intricate ‘Garden of Earthly Delights’ is a captivating oil painted triptych depicting paradise, earthly pleasures, and hell. It is filled with bizarre creatures, hybrid animals, and fantastical machines. While this painting is housed in the Museo del Prado in Madrid in Spain, there are many Bosch paintings and replicas available to view in Den Bosch.
Learn about Bosch at these institutions:
- Jheronimus Bosch Art Center – dedicated to the life and works of the city’s famous painter, featuring high-quality reproductions of his paintings and interactive exhibits that provide insight into Bosch’s imaginative world and medieval life in Den Bosch.
- Noordbrabants Museum – The North Brabant Museum features a diverse collection that includes works by Vincent van Gogh, contemporary art, and historical artefacts spanning from prehistoric times to the present day. We loved the modern art and Van Gogh sections of this museum. The cafe here is also fantastic. Buy your tickets in advance.
- Huis van Bosch – a multimedia experience that immerses you in the fantastical world of Hieronymus Bosch, based in his old house on the market square.
Old Town Centre + Market Square
The old town centre is easy to navigate on foot, and is a short walk from the train station. Little medieval cobbled streets open out to market squares, and boutique-lined roads that wind between the cathedral and other interesting sights.
There are markets on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday on Markt Square. With restaurants in the centre and on the adjoining streets. It is a fun maze of winding streets to get lost in.
The best restaurant streets we found were Korte Putstraat and Lepelstraat – where bars and restaurants spill out onto the street and covered terraces welcome you.
St. John’s Cathedral
St. John’s Cathedral is in the east of the old town, with a large square (often used for events) next to it, and the opera house. It’s a magnificent example of Gothic architecture dating back to the 13th century, but with some rather amusing modern additions. Traditional flying buttresses are augmented by 115 figures adorning the peaks of the roofline. One of these is a modern angel (pictured below), wearing street clothes and talking on her mobile phone!
The interior is beautiful, with both modern and traditional stained glass windows. It is a lovely example of how you can update a cathedral without sacrificing the traditional look and feel.
While we were in town there was a huge sing-a-long opera concert in the square next to the cathedral!
Binnendieze
The Binnendieze is a series of canals and waterways around and under Den Bosch. Dating back to the Middle Ages, these canals originally served as a defensive system and were used for transportation and waste disposal. As the city grew, many sections were built over, creating a partially underground waterway system.
By the 20th century, much of the Binnendieze had fallen into disrepair and was forgotten. Efforts to restore and revitalise this historical waterway began in the 1970s. Today, the Binnendieze is a popular tourist attraction. You can take a boat tour to experience the city from a unique perspective, gliding through tunnels and under ancient buildings.
Food to try in ‘s-Hertogenbosch / The Netherlands
Bossche Bol
Also known as the “Chocoladebol,” this beloved local delicacy consisting of a large, tennis ball-sized choux pastry filled with whipped cream and coated in a thick layer of dark chocolate. You can do a whole Bossche Bol Experience tour!
We read lots of recommendations for the Jan de Groot bakery near the station, and then overheard someone say ‘don’t bother queuing, as they all taste the same’. But, having done the research for you, and can attest to the deliciousness of the Jan de Groot bakery. Here’s a tip for how to experience this delightful morsel without the queue. Go next door to the cafe at Hotel Julien, have a seat and order a tasty coffee and fresh Bossch Bol sourced from the bakery next door!
Bitterballen
I’ve been waxing lyrical about the joys of Bitterballen for many years (thanks to Amsterdam for introducing me to this most epic snack). Meat ragu gets frozen formed into balls, covered in breadcrumbs and then fried (which reheats and softens the ragu) – so when you bite into each ball, it is a delicious meaty mouthful. Dip in mustard for the best outcome.
International options
International food – I love a country where there is immigration from many different places, as it makes for a fantastic food culture. We had amazing Afghan food from Meihan (a block behind the station). You can also find Indonesian Rice Tables (Restaurant Indonesia Bandung), Middle Eastern (Yalla Yalla Foodbar), and Tapas (PINTXJO’S) in Den Bosch.
Sweets
One of our group had a wicked sweet tooth, so we indulged in many candy stores during our trip. Snoeperij Tum Tum (Ridderstraat 11) is a traditional candy store, where you can pick and mix any number of gummy candies, liquorice, sours and more.
Don’t forget to get yourself some stroopwafels while you’re in the Netherlands. Balance one on top of your morning coffee and let the caramel interior melt before devouring!
Things to do close to Den Bosch
- Vught Concentration Camp – Visit a sad reminder of WWII at Vught Concentration Camp – a memorial to those lives lost here. Take the number 207 bus from the train station to Vught.
- Loevestein Castle – The 14th-century Castle Loevestein is located 30-minutes drive from Den Bosch.
- Heeswijk Castle – Take the 158 bus from Den Bosch for about 40 minutes to Heeswijk Castle. This 11th-century castle is one of the most beautiful in the Netherlands, and has a well designed museum inside with an audio guide.
Accommodation in Den Bosch
You have lots of options for accommodation in Den Bosch. For super central hotels, try the Golden Tulip Hotel Central or The Den, ‘s-Hertogenbosch, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel.
There are lots of apartments and airbnb options in ‘s-Hertogenbosch, like this trendy apartment. For big groups, houses in the suburbs can be found on Airbnb, which offer many beds – ours had room for 10!
Getting to and getting Around ‘s-Hertogenbosch
By Train
Den Bosch is on a train line, so you can easily use regional Dutch trains to get there. We took 3 trains from Ghent to Antwerp, Antwerp to Breda, and then Breda to ‘s-Hertogenbosch. Unfortunately there was an issue with the line during our trip, however there was a replacement bus service running from Tillburg and Boxtel.
‘s-Hertogenbosch is only 30 minutes by train from Utrecht (another Dutch city we love). An hour from Amsterdam, and only 20 minutes from Eindhoven.
By Car
The Netherlands is super easy to road trip around. We even dare to visit Amsterdam with our car (as long as you book accommodation with parking, it’s relatively easy). Den Bosch has a very compact centre of town, with lots of pedestrian zones, so I would recommend staying outside the old town centre if you are arriving by car.
Getting Around Den Bosch
There is a great bus network to get you around Den Bosch. The main bus station is at the train station, so it is very easy to transfer between the two, and the schedules are posted on big boards above the bus stations.
We stayed north of the ‘s-Hertogenbosch Oost station, but found the buses just as easy and quick as the trains.
Once in the centre of Den Bosch, it is very walkable and pedestrian-friendly.
You can choose to rent bikes and ride around the city, but I would warn those who aren’t familiar with riding, that biking in the Netherlands is taken VERY seriously! Be sure to ride with confidence, follow the road rules, stay in bike lanes, and give way to faster riders.
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All photos & content © Hannah Henderson and may not be used without permission (sharing this blog post is fine, though!). Images shot with a Canon DSLR T3i Rebel + Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM; and an iPhone.
What a great, complete, and practical guide to Den Bosch, Hannah. I have traveled quite a lot in the Netherlands, but not yet here. I now really look forward to visiting the city. Thank you.
I think you’d love it – try to combine a visit with the next Bosch Parade, it’s so funky and interesting!