Naples Revisited : The Power of Travel

In 1999 I spent some time in Naples, Italy, and it totally changed my life. I can say that with distinct clarity, with the benefit of hindsight and twenty more years of travelling under my belt. I was 19 years old and new to travelling, and was in Naples to nanny for some friends of my Dad. To say I was naïve would be an understatement, but we all have to find our way in our travelling boots, right? Here’s my story of how I revisited Naples after 20 years, and how the power of travel is a rather marvellous thing.

Revisiting Naples after 20 years

20 year anniversary

I don’t know whether it is the mists of time, or just my fading memory, but my travels in Naples in 1999 have such a rosy glow. I’m sure that in the moment I was relatively terrified by the whole scenario. It was my first solo overseas trip, and I admit to feeling out of my depth for the entire summer. Then, in 2018, it occurred to me that 2019 would mark my 20 year anniversary of being in Naples and I had a strong desire to go back. Plans were made and fell through. But the urge to return to Naples for my 20 year ‘reunion’ didn’t fade, and we managed to squeeze in a road trip before the year ended.

Like my first trip there in 1999, my 2019 journey was funded by my Dad. I’m pretty sure these gestures were vicarious visits on his part. Who knows, maybe we’ll visit at the same time one day. His generosity made it possible for us to visit properly and not just ‘turn and burn’ with a 1 night stay. And for that, well, I will be eternally grateful. It turned out to be a very special, and somewhat emotional, return.

We stayed in Pozzuoli, just over the hill from my old neighbourhood, Posillipo; and I had 3 full days reacquainting myself with this frenetic city. From wandering the packed and chaotic streets of Vomero, to tasting real Neapolitan pizza again – it was sense and memory renewal. I showed my husband all the places that I spent time – it felt like introducing him to an old friend.

First Second Impressions

I was really worried that in the intervening 20 years, Naples might’ve become some kind of tourist mecca. That all the beguiling grit of the place might have been deep-cleaned, and that the spirit of the city sanitised. Thankfully that has not occurred. Naples revels in its relative chaos, the no holds-barred traffic and gesticulating, and the fabulously loud locals. The unapologetic nature of the place has been retained. And you cannot know how utterly thankful I am for that fact.

Nostalgia + the things that changed me

Nostalgia really does have the power to lead to disappointment when it comes to travel. A place that was once held dear may’ve changed its spots across the decades. You as a person (hopefully) may’ve have changed your perspective. But nostalgia also has the power to reinforce those course-altering moments in your life.

Naples could be regarded as the ‘baptism by fire’ of my travel career. It was like saying to someone that was afraid to fly, ‘ok, you’re not only going to fly, you are also going to pilot the plane’.

It isn’t a gentile, easy city. Naples has guts and opinions and can be kind of overwhelming. Traits that I later learnt to love, but that at the time I was highly uncomfortable with. So maybe Naples is WHY I love diving into things head first, maybe it is WHY I say ‘yes’ to every travel opportunity. I sure do feel like it is the reason why I am relatively fearless when it comes to travel.

You can read more about our Italian road trip, starting in the Cinque Terre!

Naples : My Inspiration

On my visit to Naples in 1999, my favourite spot was in the gardens at the Certosa di San Martino museum, high above the city. The vista with Vesuvius on the left and across the bay of Naples was, and still is, the most inspirational view I have ever seen. I sat there and started writing a novel. Now, I never finished that novel, in fact I don’t even know where the draft is. But that view, that luscious view, was inspirational enough for me to start the endeavour.

Revisiting the monastery of San Martino in 2019, and standing on the lookout above the gardens where I once sat writing, gave me goosebumps. It is crazy how a place can carry with it such power and nostalgia. I didn’t sit and write again when I revisited Naples, but I did have a deep sense of appreciation for the inspiration it has given me over the years.

Naples Revisited : The Power of Travel

Like any destination that inhabits that nostalgic space in your heart, Naples will always be special to me. I can’t believe that I am still so in awe of the power that travel has. I suppose it is these revelatory travel experiences that keep us travelling, right? Not every trip is going to shake your raison d’être, or even be enjoyable; but perhaps it is those uncomfortable moments that are the most powerful? What do you think?

Have you witnessed the power of travel for yourself? Tell me more in the comments below!

All photos & content © Hannah Henderson and may not be used without permission (sharing this blog post is fine, though!). Images shot with a Canon AE1 (1999); and a Canon DSLR T3i Rebel + Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM, plus an iPhoneX (2019).