My Summer in Naples, Italy 1999

In 1999, I was in Paris, hanging out at a hostel with my friends (and generally finding my traveller feet), when I got an offer to nanny for a family my dad knew in Naples.  I couldn’t afford to get there, so my dad paid.  Naples is special to my Dad, he transited through there in his youth (back when people took boats); and spent time doing some conservation work in monasteries there as an adult.  He was in love with the place, so he needed me to see it too. These are my reflections on how I spent a summer in Naples, Italy, in 1999.

Note: This post is written from memory from travel diaries from 1999, and from emails I wrote to my family back in NZ at the time. I revisited in 2019, and had an amazing time rediscovering my beloved Naples. The photos are ‘vintage’ and new mixed for impact.

Getting to Naples from Paris

I hopped a train from Paris’s Gare de l’Est early one morning and began the 10 hour train ride.  I slept for most of France, but was woken for passport checks in Bardonecchia and then woke to see the beautiful Lago di Tresimeno as we passed – a sight that I remember vividly, despite the years that have passed. 

Having taken money out of the cash machine at Milan station, the food trolley on the train refused to break my 50 lira note. I didn’t care so much for the food, but I was SO thirsty.  I sat there looking helpless, until this little old Italian woman shoved a massive sandwich and some water in my direction – I politely shook my head, but she insisted.  It was the best sandwich I’ve ever eaten – bless her. I arrived into Naples train station at 9pm – not the time of night you really want to be hanging around alone at the train station. But I stood on my pack and looked as surly as I could muster until my lift arrived.  On reflection, I probably had little to worry about, but you live and you learn!

My Neapolitan Neighbourhood

I was staying with a lovely family up in the suburb of Posillipo, overlooking the Bay of Naples.  From that vantage point you could see all the way from Vesuvius on the left to the Island of Ischia on the right and across to Sorrento and Capri over the bay – it was a magnificent spot.  My favourite walk was either up to the Piazza Salvatore di Giacomo, a wee square in a wooded park at the top of Via Posillipo, which was quiet and cool in the intense Italian heat; or down the hill to the water on Via Ferdinando Russo – where there is a small beach and a harbour for small fishing boats.

My favourite Naples hangouts

In between looking after the kids, I got to see the sights. The city of Naples itself was relatively empty in August, as all the Italians go away on their summer holidays. I also got visit Pompeii, Museo di Capodimonte, the incredible Museo Nazionale di San Martino and the Sant’Elmo fortress, and the Royal Palace of Caserta (pictured) to the north.

Mergellina

At the bottom of the Posillipo hill is the marina at Mergellina – a lovely place for a gelato and a walk down to Stazione zoologica Anton Dohrn, a 19th century aquarium.

Carrying on around the coast you get to the grand old edifice of the 12th century Castel dell’Ovo.  Heading north into the city centre you get to Piazza del Plebiscito, the large pedestrian square with cavalry statues, Basilica Reale San Francesco di Paola, and the ostentatious Royal Palace.  The main street up through town is Via Toledo, and there are lovely little streets criss-crossing back and forth.

Archaeology Museum

One of my absolutely favourite areas of Naples centre is Piazza Museo, half way up Via Toledo.  The fantastic Naples National Archaeological Museum and Santa Maria di Costantinopoli church.  I spent hours and hours in the Archeological Museum, at first because of fascinating collection, but then because it was refuge from the midday heat! It is full of incredible finds from Pompeii and Herculaneum and will keep you occupied for hours!

Pompeii

Pompeii and Herculaneum are easy to get to by train, and are incredibly well preserved and restored.  Parts that have stuck with me are:  the amphitheatre at Pompeii, which they were still excavating when I visited, and the communal roman toilets – their plumbing systems were fantastic even back then!

The Best View

I recommend a visit to the Museo Nazionale di San Martino and the Sant’Elmo fortress on the hill above Naples city centre. Not only are they fascinating attractions, but you get the most spectacular views from up there.  I spent a few hours writing there one day and the views and surroundings were inspiring.

Food

I learned how to cook some fabulous Italian food (including a quick carbonara), and how to cut a watermelon without a chopping board (although I wouldn’t attempt that now!) in Naples.  You can visit the world’s first pizza joint, Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba, in Naples.  Napoletana pizza has very specific preparatory instructions and is a little soft and pliable yet still with structure – it is still my favourite kind of pizza and I can’t wait to have it again!

Learning Curve

I was wandering back down Via Toledo one day when I stopped to take a photo of a quaint little side street (see pic below).  What I didn’t realise was that I had accidentally taken a photo of a dodgy dealing taking place in the shadows, and subsequently had to hide in a bank to avoid the surly looking fellas! If only they knew what I later learnt, that my photo hadn’t captured anything of their dealings (that was the trouble with film cameras, you can’t review your pics). Lesson learnt, pay attention to where you point your camera! That goes for any big city – pay attention!

There was a gritty side to Naples in 1999.  I was told not to go beyond Via Chiaia, as that was where the Camorra (Neapolitan mafia) apparently hung out. But I’m sure a lot has changed since then.  I saw a fair bit of theft, with vespa thieves slashing the handles of handbags and making off with the loot through the malaise of the Italian traffic.  But I never felt unsafe. A lot has changed since 1999, with budget airlines making it a more common destination. The city retains those gritty and interesting overtones, partly due to the fantastically loud and lovely people.

My Summer in Naples, Italy

I can’t really explain how important Naples was to my young self, but it really did help to define me. I plan on visiting Naples again in 2019, to celebrate 20 years since being there. This beautiful gritty, heaving, frenetic, stunning, warm and vibrant city stole my heart 19 years ago, and I can’t wait to revisit and see if it still captures my heart (I bet it does)!

Read my up to date Naples Guide + Tips for touring around in Italy!

All photos & content © Hannah Henderson and may not be used without permission (sharing this blog post is fine, though!). Images shot with a Canon AE1 film camera, printed and then photographed with an iPhone (apologies!).