Edinburgh is a magical city. From the ancient buildings and monuments, to the amazing pub and restaurant scene, Edinburgh is a city with old bones but a modern sensibility. I lived in Edinburgh for 16 years and have a deep appreciation for both the tourist side of the city, as well as those comfortable local spots that give any travel guide a bit of a leg up. I have created a local’s guide to Edinburgh, so I could share some of my favourite hangouts with you.
Where to stay in Edinburgh
Edinburgh city centre is incredibly compact, so you can stay in almost any area and still be close to town. Most of the hotels are in the centre – either near Princes Street, or up in the Old Town, near the Royal Mile. Here are some tried and true favourites:
- The MotelOne chain have a couple of locations and are a good central option.
- The Moxy on Fountainbridge is a fabulous modern option – funky and well-priced for the heart of Edinburgh.
- For something wildly posh and awfully fairytale, the Balmoral Hotel is for you.
- If you’re looking for something modern and lush, the Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa is great for a spa or romantic weekend. We loved the club level suites at the Sheraton Grand, and the service was wonderful.
- For a central, but still quiet corner, the Four Points by Sheraton at Haymarket is very nice, and also convenient for the tram from the airport.
There are also some great B&Bs in the Southside also, such as Gladstone House.
I would recommend staying in a radius from Leith Walk in the North, to Prestonfield House to the East, down to Cameron Toll and Morningside in the South, and as far West as Haymarket – that would keep you central enough to walk everywhere.
I would recommend avoiding staying in the Cowgate, unless you don’t need much sleep!
Public Transport in Edinburgh
You definitely don’t need a hire car when visiting Edinburgh. In fact, I actively advise against it. If you need a car for your onward journey, pick it up in town on the day you start your road trip.
Tram
Edinburgh’s tram runs from the airport, through the centre of town, and down into to Leith. It is a very convenient option, although slightly more expensive than the airport bus. We also found that it wasn’t as regular as the airport bus, so did get very crowded.
Airport Bus
I actually prefer the Airport Bus to the tram for arriving into Edinburgh. There are a few more convenient stops in central Edinburgh, and with heavy luggage, these small advantages can be convenient. I suggest you choose your airport transport depending on where your hotel is.
Public Transport
Edinburgh has a fabulous public transport network, with regular buses from all the suburbs, as well as night buses. You can use a regular debit or credit card to ‘tap & cap’, which uses a contactless system and will only charge you for what you use for that day. If you are in Edinburgh for a week or more, I suggest you buy a Lothian Bus RidaCard, which allows unlimited access to trams, buses, night buses and the airport bus for increments of 7 days at a time.
Arriving by Train
The two central Edinburgh railway stations, Waverley and Haymarket, are so easy and convenient. With trains regularly from London, Manchester, Newcastle and more, Edinburgh is a main hub in Scotland. If your hotel is outside of the centre, you just have to go outside of both train stations to find taxis, the tram, and many bus routes.
Driving in Edinburgh
If you are arriving into Edinburgh by car, I would recommend staying just outside the city centre, and in an area with free on-street parking. I wouldn’t really recommend driving in central Edinburgh, not that you can’t, but it’s just not necessary – walking and public transport is easier.
Edinburgh’s Main Attractions
I’m not going to spend too much time on the main Edinburgh attractions, because you have TripAdvisor and GetYourGuide for that. But here are some of my personal favourites:
- Edinburgh Castle – More of a complex of buildings and fortifications than one hilltop castle, it is still an amazing place to visit, and has a great view over Edinburgh.
- Holyrood Palace – You can visit the Queen’s Edinburgh residence, and the Queen’s Gallery – which is an exceptional art collection.
- The Royal Mile – running from the Castle at the top of the hill, down to the Scottish Parliament and Holyrood Palace at the bottom. Visit St Giles’ Cathedral, enjoy the Scotch Whisky Experience, or visit John Knox House – an historic home from the 15th century. The top section of the Royal Market is called Lawnmarket, with cute old tenement buildings, staircases down to lower parts of the city, and hidden squares like Makars’ Court.
- Mary King’s Close – If you want to see what life was like in 16-19th Century Edinburgh, take a trip to Mary King’s Close. Take a tour of previously shut-off Closes (Mary King’s, Pearson’s, Stewart’s and Allen’s closes). Urban legend suggests that it was boarded up to quarantine plague victims, but it was actually boarded up so that the Royal Exchange could be built on top!
- National Museum of Scotland – This is one of my favourite activities in Edinburgh – from natural history, Scottish innovators, and speciality exhibitions.
Edinburgh Icons
- Greyfriars Bobby – This loyal dog guarded the grave of his dead master for 14 years, until he himself passed away. This loyal dog is memorialised at Greyfriars Kirk. A good way to learn about the haunted side of Edinburgh is to take a graveyard ghost tour! (p.s. please refrain from rubbing bobby’s nose – it costs a lot to re-finish the bronze, and it doesn’t bring you luck!)
- Harry Potter Tours – Harry Potter fans flock to Edinburgh to explore the city where the Harry Potter books were written. Take a Harry Potter walking tour to learn more and see more of Edinburgh too.
- Victoria Street – This iconic street is an instagram-ready shot of Edinburgh. It also has some fab shops and restaurants along it. Make sure you try the Whisky at the Bow Bar.
- Explore a Close – Take a wander down the Royal Mile (the High Street in the Old Town), and take a gander down some of the Closes (tiny little streets off the High Street). Advocate’s Close, Fleshmarket Close, and Roxburgh’s Close to name a few. You’ll find some great pubs and eateries down these little alleyways.
- The Grassmarket – Once a bustling marketplace and site of public executions, it is now a lively hub of pubs, restaurants, and boutique shops. It’s a buzzing area, with stunning views of the castle
Local Guide to Edinburgh
Walking and Wandering
The Meadows – This is Edinburgh’s version of ‘Central Park’. There are tennis courts, a cafe in the old cricket pavilion, and a play park. On a sunny day, this park is wall to wall sun-bathing Scots! It is great for picnicking, taking a break with kids, and for your morning run or cycle.
Arthur’s Seat – Towering over Edinburgh, is this 822ft mountain / hill is a great place to hike in the centre of Edinburgh. There are many ways up it, but the easiest is up the east side by Dunsapie Loch.
Dean Village – This picturesque part of Edinburgh is a former milling village along the Water of Leith. Combine a wander down to Dean Village and the Water of Leith with a visit to the Modern art gallery – right near the city centre, but these spots will feel a million miles away.
Art, Culture & Shopping
The Fruitmarket Gallery РA fantastic (by donation) modern art gallery next to Waverley Train Station. They also have a caf̩ and gift shop.
National Galleries of Scotland Modern One and Modern Two – The modern art galleries in Edinburgh are beautiful historic buildings in the west end, off Belford Road.
Vintage – With shops in the Grassmarket and Southside, Armstrong’s vintage clothing is a must for vintage clothes lovers – a veritable treasure chest of 70s leather jackets and vintage tweed!
Leith Walk – I love this eclectic street. This main road down to the north Edinburgh suburb of Leith is full of interesting independent shops. Indian jewellery, Polish food, Asian supermarkets, Spanish restaurants, Swedish pubs, it has it all!
St James Quarter – Once a tired shopping centre, this newly refurbished mall has everything from high street shops, restaurants and luxury brands.
Princes Street – For high street brands and tourist shops, Princes Street is where you’ll find all these – but be warned, it’s chaos on a Saturday – avoid if you don’t like crowds!
Where to Eat in Edinburgh
Edinburgh has cuisine from all over the world, and something for every budget. Here are some of my favourite places to eat and drink in Edinburgh. My dog-friendly restaurant guide will help you out if you are travelling with your furry friend.
Wings
Cheap Eats
Edinburgh’s one and only chicken wing restaurant, this place is kitsch and fantastic. You can even book the ‘Sega Mega Drive table’, where you can sit and play Sega while eating generous portions of wings with umpteenth different flavourings, and sup on a rum-slugged milkshake!
56 North
Bistro Chic
This bistro near Edinburgh university has an amazing gin selection (and runs gin masterclasses). The food is well-priced and generous – try the calamari or steak sandwich! 56 North is also dog-friendly.
Petit Paris
Popular Grassmarket location
This little slice of Paris in Edinburgh is an absolute treat. Small, busy, and authentic, the French owners and waiters make this as close to Paris as you can be in Scotland!
Mimi’s Bakehouse
Afternoon Tea
Have a sweet tooth? Get yourself to one of Mimi’s many locations and have some cake! Or try their sparkly afternoon teas, and get ready for the sugar coma!
The Witchery by the Castle
Fancy meal to remember
Dramatic setting with ornate gothic décor, old-world charm and serving Scottish and seafood classics. Excellent if you want ambience and romance.
Cafe Domenico
Great value for money
This little hole in the wall Italian restaurant in Leith is easy to miss, but I cannot recommend this place highly enough. They are fabulous at catering to people with allergies. My friend has a severe shellfish allergy, and after being turned down for service at a nearby restaurant, Cafe Domenico welcomed us and did an amazing job catering to her needs.
The Espy
Perfect beach day out
East of the city, in Portobello (worth a visit for the beach and promenade alone), The Espy is a casual seafront dining experience – with fab rums and delicious food.
Bonnie & Wild
Fancy food court
The new St James Quarter is full of eateries, shops and accommodation options. Bonnie & Wild is an up-marketing food court with lots of seating areas, bars and many different cuisine options.
Loudons
Brunch / families
Loudons, on Fountainbridge, is a really fantastic place for brunch or have lunch with the family. It is spacious, dog-friendly and has facilities for families, Their brunch options are divine, as are their smoothies.
Traditional Nightlife in Edinburgh
For some great Scottish folk music, or traditional pub options, try some of these favourites:
- Get yourself down to the Captains or Royal Oak at the end of your evening, enjoy a whisky and some amazing folk music. These tiny folk pubs have music every night and are a real treat for visitors.
- For cocktails and a lively student vibe, head to Paradise Palms near the university. Their bar snacks are amazing too.
- Many of the best and oldest pubs in Edinburgh are on the outskirts (the Sheep Heid, Kings Wark etc.), but for central options, try The White Hart Inn on the Grassmarket, or The Mitre Bar or Royal Mile Tavern.
For a pub crawl, head to Rose Street, where there are lots of bars and restaurants of all kinds.
When is the best time to visit Edinburgh
The best time to visit Edinburgh is late spring to early autumn (May to September), when the weather is mild, the days are long, and the city’s gardens and historic streets are at their most vibrant. The weather in Edinburgh is unpredictable all year round, so always come with layers.
May and June offer fewer crowds than the peak summer months, with pleasant temperatures ideal for walking the Royal Mile, exploring Edinburgh Castle, or strolling through Dean Village.
July and August bring the Edinburgh Festival Fringe and other major cultural events, creating an electric, if not crowded, atmosphere full of performances, and street acts.
Late September offers a quieter charm, with autumnal colours and crisp days. But don’t visit at the start of September, the universities are starting their school year and it is busy with student parties and parents visiting!
Day Trips from Edinburgh
I couldn’t write a local’s guide to Edinburgh without also mentioning the nearby day trips from the city:
The Kelpies
Only a short drive from Edinburgh are the incredibly beautiful Kelpies sculptures by artist Andy Scott. Read more about how to visit The Kelpies and how they were made.
Callander + The Trossachs Trail
If you’re looking for a great day trip out into nature, then The Trossachs Trail and a visit to Callander is a perfect way to see some of Scotland’s natural beauty. A mere 1.5 hours outside of Edinburgh, Callander is the gateway to the Trossachs National Park. The Trossachs Trail takes you round to Aberfoyle and Loch Venachar, and isn’t an arduous drive.
North Berwick + East Lothian
A day trip to North Berwick was one of my favourite weekend activities when I lived in the city. Easily accessible by train from Waverley Station, North Berwick is a quaint seaside town in East Lothian.
Forth Bridges + Firth of Forth
A short hop from Edinburgh is the Firth of Forth. This inlet from the North Sea is crossed by three beautiful bridges – The Forth Rail Bridge, the Forth Road Bridge, and the Queensferry Crossing. You can take a boat tour of the Firth and out to Inchcolm Island too.
Tours around Scotland from Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a good starting point for further travels around Scotland. You can take guided tours to the highlands, the Isle of Skye, Loch Ness and beyond. Or you could just hire a car and enjoy a DIY road trip from Edinburgh. I recommend picking a hire car up from the airport, there are more choices and you can get a wider range of models. Some of my favourite places in Scotland are: Glencoe, Newtonmore, Oban, Glenfinnan, and Dornoch.
Read my guide to Scottish road trips that AREN’T the NC500.
A Local’s Guide to Edinburgh, Scotland
Edinburgh is a vibrant city with great galleries, eateries, and wonderful welcoming people. The arts festivals that take over the city in August make it very frenetic, but also really really exciting – so if you love the arts, comedy, books and buzz, then that’s the time to visit (but be warned, it’s expensive).
When the festival’s over, Edinburgh still reigns as a fabulous city for culture, food and exceptional architecture. There is a vibe about the place – it crosses the boundaries between history and modern life. It will always be one of my favourite cities, so I hope this local’s guide to Edinburgh helps you to make it one of yours too.
If you’re short on time, why not use my 24 hour guide to Edinburgh to kick-off your visit?
All photos & content © Hannah Henderson and may not be used without permission (sharing this blog post is fine, though!). Images shot with a Canon DSLR T3i Rebel + Canon EF Lens 50mm 1:1.8 STM; and an iPhone.
I’m thinking of visiting Edinburgh later this year so thanks for this guide! That cake at mimi’s bakehouse looks absolutely delicious!
Thanks Sophie! Mimi’s is fantastic – highly recommended. Have a great visit to Edinburgh!
Edinburgh looks amazing! Serrano & Manchego sounds like a place i want to eat.
Oh, it is soooo good. They do a tapas breakfast that is to die for!
It is always tough to think of your home city as a tourist. I’ve struggled doing that myself, but am glad you finally broke through and wrote about the cool stuff to see in Edinburgh besides the major stuff in the guidebooks.
Thank you! I’m excited to see what you get up to in my old home town! I hope you love it!
Edinburgh is the most beautiful place. It is the capital city of scotland. lots of fun activities we can do in this place.
Great read Hannah thanks so much..we can’t wait to explore Edinburgh!!!
Can’t wait to see your pics!
Great guide Hannah! Edinburgh is such a wonderful city, definitely somewhere I want to return to soon once the world has gone back to normal. Familiar with some of these places but looking forward to checking out some of the others 🙂
It is a special city indeed!
Reading this instantly transported me back to Edinburgh! The Castle was one of the highlights of my trip too, and the Royal Mile had such a lively energy with all its shops and street performers. Love how you’ve captured the feel of the city here.