Have you ever been to a place that looked just like a fairytale? Verteuil-sur-Charente is a picturesque village in the Charente department of south-western France. TV chef, James Martin, visited the Chateau de Verteuil as part of his ‘French Adventure‘ series, and it looked magical. So I made a point to visit the next time I was in the Charente, and love to take visitors to the area. Located not far from the city of Ruffec, Verteuil sur Charente is a fairytale village worthy of a detour.
How to get to Verteuil-sur-Charente
Verteuil-sur-Charente is in the south-west of France, inland from La Rochelle. It is only a 10 minute drive from Ruffec; which in turn is an easy 3 hour train ride from Paris. Other close by cities are Poitiers and Angoulême. Verteuil gets busy on weekends, especially in the high season. There is some parking in the centre of town outside the Mairie’s office, an aire de service over the river, and a parking lot just on the edge of the town towards to the D26 road north.
Where to stay in Verteuil
Verteuil-sur-Charente is home to the truly special Le Couvant des Cordeliers – a bed and breakfast set in a 15th century monastery. If you’re searching for a holiday home option, try Rue des Douves right in the centre of town. Or the chambre d’hôte, Les Halles. If you’re travelling by camper van, the wonderful riverside Camperstop des 3 Vallées (12 Rue de la Fontaine) is a tranquil spot.
Things to see & do in Verteuil
Château de Verteuil
The Chateau de Verteuil is right in the centre of the village, surrounded by houses on one side and the river on the other. You can visit, but only April-Sept, and only on the weekends by way of a guided tour. It is not possible to visit without a guide. The Chateau de Verteuil was built in the 11-12th centuries, but was destroyed and rebuilt in the 14th century. It presides over the town in a mild and graceful way – yes, it’s a beautifully grand building, but it isn’t hugely ostentatious or overwhelming.
EDIT: The Château was recently sold, so may no longer be accessible. The view of it from the river is divine despite this.
Moulin de Verteuil
When in Verteuil sur Charente, you must visit Le Moulin de Verteuil, the old mill café that makes the most fabulous brioche using flour milled onsite. They have two beautiful terraces, one with a view of the chateau, and one looking over the lower section of the river and the bridge. It is an idyllic setting, and the food is delicious too. Make sure you take a trip to the toilet before you leave, it has a rather unique feature (no, I won’t ruin the surprise)!
You can see the mill that processes the grain, and buy the brioche that is made onsite. Brioche is a sweet bread, full of butter, and is a bit like a loaf of croissant. Every time we visit Verteuil, we buy a loaf to take home, and eat it heated up for breakfast – yum!
Love the café culture in France? Read about my favourite cafés in the Latin Quarter of Paris.
Eating and drinking in Verteuil
Spend some time at Cave LA RéGIE, a beautiful wine and spirits shop, with a convivial tasting area. For an afternoon aperitif, visit Le Bistro des Douves – it has live music regularly and a great vibe. For dinner, why not try Café Portebleue – this stylish bistro has all your favourite french classics. And for a fabulous elevated view of the château, visit the Sénéchalerie.
Verteuil-sur-Charente – A Fairytale Village
There are fairytale villages all over the south-west part of France (Brantôme, Montmorillon, and Rochechouart to name just a few); but Verteuil is a favourite of ours. When people think of the french countryside, it is wisteria-covered villages like Verteuil-sur-Charente that people think of. Get your dose of french conviviality, château splendour, and the rural dream here on the Charente River in Verteuil.
Need some help navigating your french holiday? Contact me or see more of my favourite french cities and towns!
All photos © Hannah Henderson and may not be used without permission (sharing this blog post is fine, though!). Images shot with a Canon DSLR T31 Rebel + Canon EF Lens 50mm 1:1.8 STM; and an iPhoneX.
Wow this place looks incredibly charming and beautiful!! When we visited France a few years ago for Paris. It was wonderful but I feel like we didn’t really get to experience much of the country. Looking at your post makes me want to return very soon and spend a lot more time in the outskirts. Great article!
Thanks for your comment Bel, yes Verteuil is as charming as the photos! Agreed, I love Paris for what it is, but there is much more to France than just Paris. The train networks are fantastic, and watching the rolling countryside from a train is one of my favourite things. Try to visit places like St Malo, Bordeaux, La Rochelle, Mont St Michel, Il de Re, and Brantôme! And if you have time, exploring the Charente is beautiful – Saintes, Cognac, Verteuil and inland to the Limousin to visit Oradour-sur-Glane. Have a great day!
Very good article.
Hello Hannah, just found your blog entry on Verteuil after it being shared by a facebook friend. Coincidental as today is the eve prior to taking the long journey again from Brisbane to Verteuil to our little house in the village. We found this beautiful corner of the Charente through good fortune. You are right, it is a beautiful little village that has charmed the socks off us. Well written, and thanks for the taste of Verteuil !
What a big journey for you! I’m glad you liked the article, and I hope you have a wonderful time back in the village!
This village surely has a rustic feel to it. Al least from your photos they do look great. Kinda reminded me of Mont St Michel in the architecture. Similar awesomeness!
Wow indeed like a fairy land! Those Wisteria flowers are so delightful! Food choice sounds too good. France deserves more days to tour and experience. I wish I had that time.
Not allowed to vist without a guide, that is strange. What if someone wants to visit at their own pace. Those lavender colored flowers are beautiful, by any chance do you know their name?
It’s wisteria – the french take great pride in training it up and over their doorways!
So many people only focus on Paris, which is lovely, but that way they miss all the beautiful towns in France! I’d never heard of Verteuil-sur-Charente, but we were already toying with the idea of a tiny road trip in France. Since you said that April is a good month to explore the city, we might see if we can get a guided tour over there. It looks lovely!
I think France is one fo those european destinations that never tires you. The landscape, the food, the good wine, bread and cheese, and the OCean beaches. I have only been to Paris, and a few times crossing south of France on my way to Spain. Bordeaux and the region has been long on my list, also because of all the relatives I have in that region. It’s a bit of a shame that I haven’t been visiting France as I should. This place is truly a little gem, the Chateau looks beautiful and those flowering roads, are they bougainvilles? So pretty! You make me really want to go!
We used to watch the James Martin TV series, we have to go back and watch this episode again. It does look beautiful village. We have to visit soon if only to solve the mystery of the toilet.
Really looks like a fairytale. the place is lovely and peaceful. it’s pretty much a much-needed getaway. i think france has many hidden gems, although i haven’t been yet. i love house wines! when we go to restaurants or any local places, we love trying out the house wines, and yes, the brioche, sweet! i love breads! take away, please!
I love France, the villages are all gorgeous! I can’t get over that wisteria purple plan, I want one of those in my house! Good old James Martin, he is my friend’s favourite chef, she’s obsessed with him! I’ll have to bring her here to follow in his footsteps!
Verteuil-sur-Charente definitely looks like a fairytale village – so cool that it’s so close to you – might make it easy enough to make another trip back at a time when you can visit inside the chateau 🙂 The chateau is so stunning from the outside though! I love local travel, there’s usually so much cool stuff to do within our local areas that we forget about!
This place sure looks like a fairytale town. Unfortunately, I have only visited Paris but I would love to explore more of France by visiting towns like this one. I have heard the castles in France are spectacular.
It’s just something incredible. This is really a fairytale place. I am very glad that I learned about this village. Your photos are gorgeous! Thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome! I hope you get to visit one day 🙂
Looks like a pretty place to visit. I’ll be sure to check it out next time I’m in the area, only briefly passed through La Rochelle last year but looked nice enough that I’ve considered going back. I’ll add this to the list to see when I do 🙂
Great article,mid may is the best time to visit.
My wife and I are renting a gite close to Vertiuel-sur-Charente, over December and January. Wondering if Cafes, Bars, Shops and Restaurants will be open during these two months. Could do with a recommendation of where to enjoy a Christmas dinner on Christmas day. Any thoughts?
Hi Tony, you’ll have a wonderful time! Yes, bars and restaurants stay open over the winter there. Check in at the Bistrot des Douves – they have an english-speaking contingent if you struggle with French, and they have the low down on many restaurants!
Try Porteblue in Verteuil , he might be open , try the charente lakes , riverside bar , English couple , used to be open Xmas day , you will have to check . you will find French restaurants open , not many , for sure not doing traditional English roast … Porteblue in Verteuil is your best bet , or the lakes…..good luck and enjoy , if you are after a good French rest for lunch normally , Cafe du Marche Ruffec , daily for lunch , or something special Che Paul , Angouleme , our favourite…good luck .