Lyon sits at the point where the Rhône and Saône rivers meet. This beautiful French river city is renowned for its food and history. Although, there appear to be two types of people – those who prefer Lyon and those who prefer Paris. I am firmly in the Paris camp, but I do appreciate Lyon as a city worthy of a visit. A weekend in Lyon is a perfect way to discover the delights of this city, and maybe to help you to decide which of these amazing french cities you prefer!
Arriving in Lyon
You will likely arrive into Lyon by air into Lyon–Saint-Exupéry Airport, or by train. There is a great train from the airport into Lyon-Part-Deux, called the Rhône Express. Lyon-Part-Deux train station is in the East of the city centre, and there are loads of buses and trams that fan out from this point to all parts of the city. Gare de Lyon-Part-Deux is on the Paris-Lyon-Marseille line for the SNCF and Eurostar trains; and is a hub for many metro lines. Lyon is one of the easiest cities to navigate I have encountered in my travels around Europe.
Where to stay in Lyon
I recommend staying in the city centre (the sliver of land between the Rhône and the Sôane), or Vieux Lyon (the old town, over the Sôane). In the city centre, try to get a hotel between Hotel de Ville in the North and Bellecour in the South. We enjoy the Mercure Lyon Centre Beaux-Arts on Rue du Président Edouard Herriot, which had a fabulous view of Place de Jacobins.
Where to eat in Lyon
Lyon is famous for it’s Bouchon – the traditional Lyonnaise restaurant specialising in meaty treats such as Lyonnaise sausages, offal, and pâté. There are only about 20 actual Bouchon in Lyon, although many claim to be. I would recommend Daniel et Denise, Chez Georges le petit bouchon, or Le Mercière. Vegetarians beware: the French aren’t much for vegetarian dishes usually, but these are particularly meat-orientated!
For other dining options, check out the restaurant street, Rue Mercière – it’s a little like the Left Bank in Paris. Many are touting tourist formulé menus, but you’ll soon spot the restaurants worth visiting (they’re the ones full of locals).
I recommend trying the Salade Lyonnaise, made with frisée lettuce, lardons, a poached egg, and a dressing made with the bacon fat, this salad is something special!
There is one more VERY important thing to tell you about drinking in Lyon – the Pot Lyonnaise. It is a special 46cl glass bottle for wine. Grab yourself a Pot lyonnaise of Côtes-du-Rhône or Provençale Rosé for as little as €8 – delicious!
Buy your Lyon City Card for 1, 2, 3 or 4 days
Things to do in Lyon
La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière
To see Lyon in all it’s glory, you must head up the hill to La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière. You can reach the top of the hill either by walking through the gardens, or by taking the funicular. You get a gorgeous panorama and get to see a top basilica at the same time.
Roman Ruins
Walk around the back of the basilica and you get to the Roman ruins – Théatre et Odéon Antiques & Musée Gallo-Romain. The old amphitheatre is stunning to see, even if you don’t go into the museum. If you’re visiting Lyon, I wouldn’t miss seeing the Roman ruins – it is a fascinating snapshot into that period in history.
Old Town Lyon
A true delight is wandering the Vieux Lyon (the old town). The lovely little winding streets with lots of cafés, boutiques and pubs. Rue Saint-Jean is the most famous street in the old town, but Rue du Boeuf (runs parallel) is just as good, and is slightly less touristy.
Musée des Beaux Arts
A highlight for me is always the museums and art galleries in France. The Musée des Beaux Arts de Lyon does not disappoint. Home to the fine arts collection of Lyon, the Musée des Beaux Arts is housed in an old convent near Place des Terreaux. Of particular interest to me were the Rodin sculptures and the beautiful religious iconography paintings. No doubt some of which are a nod to the building’s former life as a convent.
Bartholdi Fountain and the Hôtel de Ville
While you’re near Place de Terreaux, why not enjoy the beautiful Lyon Town Hall (Hôtel de Ville), and the famous Bartholdi Fountain. Unveiled in 1892 and designed by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi (the man behind the Statue of Liberty); this beautiful bronze horse sculpture was apparently originally designed for a square in Bordeaux. It was later deemed too expensive and sold to Lyon. A loss for Bordeaux indeed!
Hire a bike
Like all major French cities, you can hire bikes very easily at any one of the bike stations around the city. Just insert your credit card, pay a deposit plus a fee and use the un-lock code to get your bike. Take a ride down the Rhône and Saône riverbank paths and have a picnic along the way. You could also take a bike tour with a guide to maximise your time in the saddle!
If you have time, I highly recommend a tram-ride out to the Parc de la Tête d’Or. Here, you can enjoy walks in this majestic park, hire a row boat, or visit the spectacular Musée d’art contemporain de Lyon (Contemporary Art Museum).
A Weekend in Lyon
The winding streets of the old town, the grand squares of the city centre, and the charming river walks and bridges of Lyon are certainly guaranteed to capture the hearts of visitors. Each time I visit I find new and interesting places to see. I hope you get to have a weekend in Lyon soon. And do let me know if you prefer Paris or Lyon in the comments below!
France is my soul-country! If you want planning tips for your French adventure, contact me or let’s connect on Twitter!
All photos © Hannah Henderson and may not be used without permission (sharing this blog post is fine, though!).
argh… Lyon is so close to our home, but somehow we still haven’t made it there yet! it’s been on our bucket list for a short weekend getaway for so many years, but everytime we end up spending our weekend in another city. now reading this makes us realize that we really need to drive to lyon soon! We’d love to visit the musée des beaux-arts and of course the roman ruins! good to know about the Bouchon for dinner! thanks for sharing this! 🙂
Lyon looks so pretty! I did not know that there were roman ruins in Lyon. A bike ride down the Rhône and Saône riverbank paths sounds amazing. I cant choose between Paris and Lyon. It’s too hard!
I’ll be there in a few months! So excited. My husband will be overjoyed to try the salad dressing made with bacon fat. Apparently bacon really does make everything better! 🤣
Thanks for sharing this.
Bacon really does make everything better! Enjoy Lyon when you visit – I think you’ll love it!
I haven’t thought much about Lyon but your images are gorgeous. Love that it is easy to travel too. I love exploring old towns and would definitely try Bouchon before relaxing next to the Bartholdi Fountain
Dressing made with bacon fat – yummy. I might have to take a bike ride just to work off all those calories but it would be worth it. Navigating European cities is always difficult for me so it’s good to here that Lyon is easy to get around in.
Wow! Lyon is just fascinating. I’d love to see the exquisite architecture and ruins. the Salade Lyonnaise dish youmentioned sounds quite tasty.
Interesting to know that French aren’t into vegetable dishes. A little bit similar to the Philippines where most of our meals are meat based. but it’s always nice to have great recommendations of where to eat from people who have actually been there like you. a weekend in lyon looks so worth it. I can go for bike rides here, too! I’d love to send your post to my friend who’s flying to france this december!
I hope it is of use to them!
I went to Lyon years ago when I was a student but don’t remember doing any of these things, it looks like I need to go back! I do remember the salade Lyonnaise though and can confirm it is delicious!!
I passed through Lyon once on a road trip from Cannes to Normandy. We had only enough time to stop for a quick lunch. I could see the Basilica up on the hill overlooking the city, so I imagine the view is very nice from there. I wish we’d been able to see more, especially now that I’ve read your post. I would enjoy seeing that beautiful fountain that was originally intended for Bordeaux. I didn’t even know there were roman ruins in Lyon – that would be pretty cool to check out too!
The last time I came to France, I planned to get to Lyon – more as a stopover. However, I could not and now with this post I realize what a mistake that was. For one, I did not even do it as a stopover and for another – it should not be a stopover but a destination in itself. There is quite a bit to explore. My favorite in this list are the roman ruins. They sound mysterious.
As you know, I adore Paris too, so I intend to pay a visit to Lyon as soon as I can to see how it compares!