Clarksdale Mississippi : One night in Bluestown

Little did I know that driving Highway 61 down through the Mississippi Delta, and visiting the city of Clarksdale, would turn out to be one of my favourite road trip drives in the USA. Following some of the Mississippi Blues Trail from Memphis to New Orleans; we stopped in Clarksdale, Mississippi, to experience a night of blues at one of their famous ‘juke joints’. Clarksdale is a town so full of character, generosity of spirit, and soul, I fear words may not do it justice… but I will try!

Blues History in Clarksdale MS

Mississippi Blues Trail

The Mississippi Blues Trail was put together by the Mississippi Blues Commission to help preserve and commemorate the people and places important in the history of blues music. Blues music is the most important influence in modern pop and rock music. So whether you are a blues fan, or just a music lover, learning more about the blues is a fascinating experience.

Don’t forget to visit the Delta Blues Museum in Clarksdale!

The Devil’s Crossroads

Legend has it that a down n’ out Robert Johnson was walking along the road here in Clarksdale, when a man offered to tune his guitar. Turns out this man was actually the devil, and offered Robert immeasurable musical talent in return for his immortal soul. Robert Johnson did turn out to be one of the most successful and famous blues men out there… so perhaps the legend is true! Who knows whether this crossroads, of the 61 and 49 highways, was actually the crossroads in question? But it does make for a fun photo op!

If you’re a fan of the incredible John Lee Hooker, head over to Vance (10 miles east of Clarksdale) to visit his Mississippi Blues Trail marker.

Live Music in Clarksdale

Juke Joints

Juke (or Jook) Joints are live music, dance, and drinking establishments. Specifically a southern thing, and especially common here in the Mississippi Delta. In Clarksdale alone, there are enough Juke Joints to provide music 365 days a year; alongside pop-up venues and events that increase the availability of live blues music. It is an exceptional offering, and the quality is beyond words. Red’s Lounge, Ground Zero Blues Club, and Blueberry Café are some of the big hitters, but see a bigger list here, and learn some of the Juke Joint rules!

Blues Music at Levon’s

We were in Clarksdale on a Sunday night, which meant not all of the music venues were open. Lucky for us, Levon’s was open for both late afternoon music and a light dinner. Ralph Miller was the entertainment, he sang blues classics as well as a range of crowd pleasers; and was a complete gentleman when we chatted outside after the show. I do love it when musicians make themselves accessible to talk after their set – it brings extra connections which an audience appreciates. The stage set-up at Levon’s is fab – very colourful and fun.

Red’s Lounge

We got chatting to some locals at Levon’s, who recommended we head over to Red’s Blues Bar (also known as Red’s Lounge) later that evening. Red’s is one of the original juke joints, and has an earthy, almost ruin-like, appearance. Blues paraphernalia lines the walls, and the ceiling looks like it is held up by miracles and good luck (perhaps the devil has paid a visit?).

We were very lucky that on the night we visited, the Stone Gas Blues Band were playing. I have never, ever, in my life (and I’m a musician), seen musical prowess like this. These guys are the real deal, and delivered hours of incredible music with what seemed like very little effort. The original Stone Gas Band hit its hey-day in the early nineties with harmonica player Arthneice ‘Gas Man’ Jones. This new iteration of the band, formed after Arthneice’s death in 2013, is a beautiful nod to this famous harp player, and a spectacle to see live.

When visiting Red’s, bring cash for both the door charge and the simple cash bar. And don’t forget to tip the band!

Street Art in Clarksdale

As an experienced street-art-spotter, I was thrilled to find so much art around Clarksdale. Buildings have been brought to life and the city has found colour and expression through these pieces.

Clarksdale Accommodation

Try the beautiful Clark House Inn – with grand bedrooms and historic fixtures. Clarksdale is also home to the most beautiful ‘hostel’ I have ever seen. The Auberge Clarksdale Blues Hostel is more like a guest house with some dorms, than traditional hostels. There are some private rooms too.

We stayed at the Clarksdale White House, which closed due to the pandemic, but we hope opens again one day.

Restaurants in Clarksdale MS

Abe’s Bar-B-Q

We were lucky enough to meet the owner of Abe’s Bar-B-Q (616 N State Street) at Levon’s and had a great chat. Everyone we talked to in Clarksdale spoke highly of this barbecue joint, which sits right at the Devil’s Crossroads. Our hosts at the White House recommended the tamales with a side of barbecued pork. I had this and can attest to the deliciousness. The real winner was the rib tips – slathered in a tangy sauce and so moreish I kept stealing them off my husband’s plate.

Disclosure: We were a guest of Abe’s Bar-B-Q, however, as always, all opinions are my own.

Levon’s

We just wanted a light snack at Levon’s (232 Sunflower Ave), but had our bellies accommodated it, we would’ve eaten more as the menu looked tasty. We had enough room to try some of their deep fried sriracha cheese curds. A genius idea and a really yummy snack.

Other restaurants in Clarksdale include: Ground Zero Blues Club (Blues Alley), Stone Pony Pizza (226 Delta Ave), and Yazoo Pass (207 Yazoo Ave).

Check out our adventures discovering Southern barbecue on the #HendersonsBBQTour

Clarksdale Mississippi : One night in Bluestown

Clarksdale is an absolutely unmissable stop on the Mississippi Blues Trail. Whether blues music is important to you or not, Clarksdale is such a wonderful little place, I would recommend it anyway. There is this sense that despite the lofty historical significance of the city, that the future is progressive and exciting. Young entrepreneurs are bringing new life to the city, as well as taking advantage of the history.

Blues is alive, and the people of Clarksdale are so hugely proud of their heritage. Our night of music in the blues town of Clarksdale Mississippi will stay with me for a long time to come.

I have now planned a number of US road trips down through the Mississippi Delta – please get in touch to plan yours!

All photos & content © Hannah Henderson and may not be used without permission (sharing this blog post is fine, though!). Images shot with a Canon DSLR T3i Rebel + Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM; and an iPhoneX.