Kuaotunu – The Gem of the Coromandel, NZ

I would love to keep Kuaotunu a secret. But this gem on the Coromandel Peninsula in New Zealand is too beautiful a place not to wax lyrical about. So here it goes – my secret is out. Pronounced Koo-ah-too-noo; this little town was my childhood holiday destination, and is home to my favourite beach in New Zealand.

I have one request if you are going to visit Kuaotunu… don’t be a selfish and careless tourist. Don’t litter, don’t piss off the locals, and remember to shop at the local shops and pay for local services to counter-balance the impacts of tourism. Be respectful – thank you!

Where is Kuaotunu?

Kuaotunu is on the east side of the Coromandel Peninsula, around 3 hours drive from Auckland. The protective coves of Mercury Bay around the city of Whitianga are the big drawcard on that side of the peninsula. Hot Water Beach, Pauanui, and Cathedral Cove are all popular east coast attractions too.

How to get to Kuaotunu

Kuaotunu (or Kua as we affectionately call it), is relatively remote and by car is really the only way to get there. Although there are some guided tours of the peninsula. Kuaotunu is over the twisty turny Kuaotunu Wharekaho Rd from Whitianga, and takes about 20 minutes by car.

I remember when that route used to be unpaved, and our old car would rattle over the metal road – we cracked many a windshield with errant flying stones! Don’t worry, it’s an asphalt road now, and a much easier drive than it was 25 years ago.

You can also reach Kuaotunu from the Coromandel township on the west coast of the peninsula. Taking the Whangapoua Road over Manaia Hill offers you some wonderful views.

Where to stay in Kuaotunu

There are no chain hotels up in Kuaotunu, only holiday homes, guest houses, and B&Bs. For a simple and private guest house option, try Black Jack Cabin – a self-contained unit not far from the beach. Looking to accommodate a lot of people? Then you can rent the big 6-bedroom holiday home, Kahukura. If B&Bs are your preference, stay at the Taigh na Mara Bed & Breakfast. For peace and seclusion, try Wildflower Garden Studio. Wherever you choose to stay, opt for proximity to the beach, and shops too if you can – everyone should experience a proper NZ beach holiday once in their life!

Kuaotunu Beach

I can’t tell you how much I love this beach. I have such fond memories of fishing, surfing and swimming at this beach as a teenager. And then, returning as an adult for our honeymoon. It is blissful.

The Kuaotunu stream runs out into the bay, and provides warmer water and a safe area for kids to swim. While the bay itself has a large curve, which means there are many areas of the beach to suit different activities – from surfing to boating and swimming. It also means that the beach rarely seems full. There are sand dunes along the edge of the beach too, but please keep to the tracks, as these dunes are often breeding grounds for shorebirds.

Where to eat in Kuaotunu

The joy of Kuaotunu is that you only have a few options, and they are fab. The first is the good old-fashioned corner store (or ‘dairy’ we us Kiwis call them), which serves ice-cream and basic provisions. The Kuaotunu Store also serves up the obligatory fish and chips – perfect for a beach picnic.

Then there’s Luke’s Kitchen – a place so cool it could be a cucumber. Beautiful handmade pizzas with stylish toppings – unusually cosmopolitan for such a remote location. Try the Nevafail – fresh fish, red onion, capsicum, mushroom, kaffir lime dressing and cheese, topped with fresh rocket, lemon & aioli – YUM!

Attached to Luke’s is Kua Kawhe Café – the perfect spot to grab a good organic espresso in the morning, or a nice slice of homemade cake. There is also a gallery attached. Luke’s hosts live music in the summer too, making it a real community hub.

Places to visit nearby

I rate the whole Coromandel Peninsula as some of the most beautiful, remote, and unspoilt in New Zealand. Places that I enjoy visiting while I’m in the area include:

• Opito Bay, for collecting shells and a great beach walk.
• Hot Water Beach, where you can dig a hole in the sand at low tide and enjoy a natural hot water spring spa. You can do a Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach day trip tour from Auckland or Whitianga.
• Cathedral Cove has become a bit of an instagrammers paradise (which caused some degradation of the area, so they sometimes close the land access).
• I also enjoy a trip into Whitianga for some shopping or a boat tour.
• If you get a chance, take a trip to New Chums Beach too – it is very secluded and you have to hike in and out, but it is magical!

Don’t miss a trip to Barry Brickell’s Driving Creek Railway – a narrow gauge railway line, through a forest and up to a viewing platform!

The gem of the Coromandel

Having spent most of our family holidays in Kuaotunu in the mid-nineties, the place has a huge sense of nostalgia for me. Ice creams in the sun, Christmas day spent swimming and boogie-boarding, and hours spent sketching plants from the sand dunes. I was so happy to revisit Kua as an adult and still have that same sense of joy – it still feels wild and remote; and special for it. Kuaotunu is definitely the gem of the Coromandel to me, and always will be. Now, don’t all rush there at once please!

While you’re visiting the North Island of New Zealand, why not do a road trip around Northland – giant kauri trees and sand dunes!

All photos & content © Hannah Henderson and may not be used without permission (sharing this blog post is fine, though!).