One of my fondest childhood memories is of taking road trips in our summer holidays around Northland, New Zealand. Driving up from Auckland’s wild west coast, then up to Opononi, Hokianga Harbour, Cape Reinga, and back down the east coast to Waitangi, and the Bay of Islands. Endless summer days of camping, swimming, hiking, and eating ice-cream! I was lucky to be able to recreate such adventures as an adult, and bring you this list of amazing things to do on a Northland road trip.
A Northland Road Trip
Muriwai
Whilst not technically in Northland, I recommend stopping in Muriwai on your way out of Auckland. Situated north of the famous surfing beaches of Piha and Bethell’s Beach, Muriwai is wild and inspiring. There is a gannet colony and plenty of pathways out to the peninsula that offer great vantages to see these magnificent birds. If you visit in December, you will be treated to the flowering of the flax plants, which attract the Tui bird to feed on the sweet nectar (and you get to enjoy the beautiful aroma of the flax too!).
Muriwai also has some of the most lovely public toilets (or loos as we call them in NZ); with open air windows and wonderful views of the coast!
Visit a giant Kauri tree
Three hours north of Muriwai is the Waipoua Kauri Forest. Here, you can see the ancient old Kauri tree, Tane Mahuta – at over 2000 years old, it is a sight to behold. The majesty of the Kauri forests in NZ is very special. All along the winding hilly roads to Northland, you see massive Kauris, and think they can’t possibly get any bigger. But Tane Mahuta is simply incredible! You have to walk through disinfectant on the way in and out, as there is a disease killing off Kauri trees – but the gentle boardwalk to Tane is easy and very accessible. Only problem is find a camera lens wide enough to capture the full tree!
Opononi
From Tane Mahuta, head north to Opononi. The view from Omapere hill is something quite spectacular. You come up over the crest of the hill and see the expanse of the Hokianga Harbour, over to the Panguru sand dunes, and down to the coastal town of Opononi. During the fifties, this little harbour town became accessible by motor car and boomed as a summer holiday destination.
Opo the dolphin
Opononi became even more popular when a male dolphin, separated from his pod, started visiting the coastline. He was friendly and started interacting with swimmers and even letting kids sit on his back. His name was Opo. He amazed and delighted crowds in 1955/56, until he was killed by stupid fishermen using gelignite. On purpose or by accident, it was a nationally mourned tragedy. He was buried with full Maori honours next to the Opononi War Memorial.
I had the pleasure of doing the children’s voice-overs for the Opo documentary in the early 90s. It is always an honour returning and enjoying this beautiful coastline once more, and paying my respects to this gorgeous beast.
Where to stay in Opononi
I recommend staying at the Opononi Lighthouse Motel. This quintessentially Kiwi motel has the basic comforts and is a fantastic location for exploring Opononi.
Where to eat in Opononi
While you are in Opononi, why not try a favourite New Zealand tradition – fish and chips on the beach. Open a pull-top can of Watties tomato sauce, unwrap your parcel of fish and chips and enjoy. Watch for the seagulls that will inevitably gather and try to steal your dinner!
Hokianga Harbour Ferry
Taking the ferry across the Hokianga harbour from Rawene to Kohukohu was always my favourite part of trips up to Northland. To drive all the way around Hokianga harbour would take hours, so this quick car-ferry ride is both efficient and fun. Stop in Rawene for some provisions – I recommend a mince and cheese pie (another Kiwi classic). And enjoy the street art too. [Hokianga Harbour Ferry ticket prices as of December 2015].
Ahipara + Ninety Mile Beach
On your way north, you’ll hit Kaitaia, a busy agricultural town on Highway One. Get yourself some ‘Kaitaia Fire’ – the famous hot sauce. It is worth detouring at this point, over to Ahipara, which is at the south end of Ninety Mile Beach. Ninety Mile Beach is actually only 55 miles long, but who’s counting? Known for its kite-surfing and other wild beach activities, Ninety Mile Beach is a great place to stop with the family for a few days.
If you are interested in art, Ahipara features in some beautiful paintings by NZ artist, Colin McCahon.
Where to stay in Ahipara
If you choose to stop at Ahipara or Ninety Mile Beach for a night or two, I recommend Ahipara Surf Lodge for beautiful holiday home, or Ahipara Holiday Park for a hostel / camping alternative.
Combine your trip to Northland with a jaunt around the Coromandel, and with a visit Kuaotunu Beach!
Cape Reinga
It’s a long drive up to Cape Reinga – nearly 3 hours; and not on easy roads either. But wow, it is stunning when you get there. When you’re nearly at the top of the island, you’ll see Cape Maria van Diemen down to your left. There are some wonderful hikes down to these secluded beaches, such as the Twilight Beach / Te Werahi loop. You can reach Te Werahi beach in 30 minutes, or choose to do the longer hike to Twilight Beach which is a 5 hour round trip.
Cape Reinga is important in the Maori culture – it is the jumping off point for the spirits on their way to the afterlife. Along the trail down to the lighthouse, there are plaques that explain the significance of the area and various landmarks visible along the way. Here, at the tip of New Zealand, you get to see the Three Kings Islands, and it is where the Atlantic and Tasman Seas meet in a beautiful wavey crunch. This wild and spectacular landscape is a bit of a drive to get to, but worth it.
Doubtless Bay
It is likely that you will be making a bee-line back to the Bay of Islands after visiting Cape Reinga. But I recommend a stop on Doubtless Bay too. One of our favourite beaches is Cable Bay, where you can swim and picnic and enjoy the view out of Doubtless Bay. Taipa is apparently where the first Maori explorer, Kupe, landed when first discovering Aotearoa.
How did this wandering Kiwi end up on the other side of the world?
The Bay of Islands
History
The last stop on this Northland road trip is to the Bay of Islands – the first area of NZ to be settled by European explorers. You could easily take a week or two exploring Russell, Keri Keri, and the Bay of Islands – there are glorious beaches, cute towns full of restaurants, and the boating and fishing out of Paihia is a great drawcard. As a child, my favourite thing to do while in the Bay of Islands was to visit Waitangi. Waitangi is the site of the signing of the historic Treaty of Waitangi (Te Tiriti o Waitangi) between the British Crown and Maori chiefs in 1840. Starting the journey towards a less divided nation, it was an important moment that has helped shape New Zealand today.
Paihia
Paihia is a beach resort town, where tourists flock for summer holidays. But it does serve as a great jumping off point for exploring the Bay of Islands. It has supermarkets, great restaurants, and a bustling waterfront. If you have time, I recommend catching the ferry over to Russell – either for a stay or for a day trip. Explore Christ Church (the oldest Anglican church in NZ) and Pompallier Mission (the old tannery); and explore the quaint bay which was the first permanent European settlement in New Zealand.
Where to stay in Paihia
For a basic family-friendly motel in Paihia, try the Averill Court Motel. Close to the south end of the beach, and easily walkable to many restaurants, Averill Court offers good value for money for families and couples. For a luxury experience, I would recommend The Waterfront Suites – Heritage Collection. For a budget alternative, try Saltwater Lodge Backpackers.
While in the Bay of Islands, don’t miss out on a boat trip out to see the Hole in the Rock. Or how about a sailing excursion?
Things to do on a Northland Road Trip
These were some of my favourite things to do and places to stop in Northland as a child. Having done them as an adult too, I can more fully appreciate the diversity of landscape that New Zealand has to offer. As well as the exceptional wines you can drink after a long day of driving and swimming and hiking. There is a reason why New Zealand is a tourism hotspot – it really is as gorgeous as the brochures. I feel lucky to have grown up in New Zealand and to have spent summers road-tripping in Northland. If you are lucky enough to visit New Zealand, make sure you don’t miss the delights of a Northland road trip!
If you need advice on planning your next road trip, get in touch via the contact page above or on Facebook.
All photos & content © Hannah Henderson and may not be used without permission (sharing this blog post is fine, though!). Images shot with a Canon DSLR T3i Rebel + Canon EF Lens 50mm 1:1.8 STM; and an iPhone.
Fantastic list of things to do here and would love to check these out when i eventually get to new zealand. i am amazed that after 2000 years that tree is still standing there and hasnt come down by earthquakes or human error yet. that is so cool. i love the rugged coastline, sometimes i prefer these to sandy beaches as i love taking coastal photography.
You would love NZ then – the rugged coastline is a photographer’s dream!
The story of Opo is so sad. I hope his death wasn’t on purpose. Those Kauri trees are really cool and I am a big fan of loos with a view. I thought the loo on Horseshoe Mesa in the Grand Canyon was the prettiest in the world, but it didn’t have an ocean view.
New Zealand is definitively on our travel wish list. Muriwai definitely looks wild and inspiring. Old trees like the Tane Muhata are always fascinating to see. Fish and chips before riding the Hokianga Harbour Ferry would be a fun treat. I will add the Twilight Beach to my travel plans. Thanks for inspiring us to put New Zealand on our plans – sooner rather than later!
2000 year old Kauri tree?! Wow!! That’s a great age to grow old. Cape Reinga sounds like an interesting place to learn about Mauri culture. The coastal line reminds of Australia’s coast, and I can totally see myself swimming and having a picnic at Cable Bay.
Perfect guide, that area looks like my kind of place too. The small town charm Reminds me of the gulf of Mexico, coastal regions of my childhood. And loo with a view in Muriwai? Classic.
Sounds like you know this area so well. I had no idea how much there was to see and do. Tragic to hear that a disease is killing the big trees. We’ve lost so many in california to the invasive bark beetle. loved your pictures too.
Orange chocolate chip ice-cream, really? Everything else about Northland New Zealand sounds fabulous though. That giant kauri tree is something else, and so is the Bay of Islands!
Chocolate orange is a great combo, and the kiwis have mastered the flavour in ice-cream! Delicious 😉
it makes me happy to hear that ninety-mile beach is only fifty-five miles long. that is hilarious. I don’t know if I’ll start with the fish and chips or the mince and cheese pie. probably best to not hurt anyone’s feelings and get both. Seeing a 2000-year-old tree that tall is definitely worth walking through some disinfectant for. Thanks for sharing!
The Muriwai Coastline looks amazing! Cape Reinga looks like a place I could relax for a bit, after the hike! The lighthouse is a bonus
Wow Tane Mahuta is an incredible tree, how beautiful. I also didn’t know that the new Zealanders have stolen our British fish and chips!! I’ll have to try it there, but I’m sure it won’t be as good as ours lol
It was the British who imported the fish & chips in the first place! We just improved them by eating them on the beach 😉